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You are watching: Briggs and stratton 20 hp intek valve adjustment


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Hello- Can anyone you re welcome tell me the valve lash setups for mine 2008 B&S (Single cylinder) engine in mine Craftsman 46" riding mower ? Engine model # 331777-1107-B1 many thanks in Advance..
The intake valves room .003 come .005,the exhaust valves are .003 come .005.Pay specific attention to the ¼” past top dead center notation for setting the clearance on web page 21 of ar 1 of the hand-operated (OR) the convey procedure below.Hope this helps.Service manual-http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12502267/B&S organization Manuals/10_276781SingleCylinderOHV.pdfAdjustment procedure-http://pkjones.hubpages.com/hub/Hard-to-start-Briggs-and-Stratton-engine
Now am I simply using the wrong model number here. As soon as I look in ~ the company manual on web page 174 for version 330000 Vertical series motors, ns see:intake: 0.003" to 0.005"exhaust: 0.003 to 0.005"Where am i going not correct here. I m sorry spec matches his model number?
Now to be I simply using the wrong model number here. As soon as I look at the service manual on page 174 for version 330000 Vertical collection motors, i see:intake: 0.003" to 0.005"exhaust: 0.003 to 0.005"Where am ns going wrong here. I m sorry spec matches his design number?
You room correct,.003 come .005 space the specs for both valves.:thumbsup:Changed to correct specs in write-up #3
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Excellent info & links,:thumbsup: thank You usmcgrunt..
I had actually not taken right into consideration around the compression releases on the camer lobes, for the 1/4" past TDC ~ above each, before setting lash.. Intersting the In. & Ex. Have actually same specs (.003-.005) ..And that the exhaust can have a stole pushrod, vs entry aluminum....I saved both links, naturally.. Thanks again. Mine valves require set, but the factor that brought about it was the rocker stud(s) backed out a little bit from the head.. This caused some oil come seep previous the threads, & drip externally. Never had anything prefer that ever happen..Have to obtain them cleaned & loc-tited, then re-seated first.... Feasible cause could have been shutting turn off the fuel petcock & to run engine till the dies, after each use.. That"s only thing I deserve to think of..
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PS: Engine starts conveniently & runs great, as well as the really minor valve clatter, ns did notification a slight boost in fuel usage. Ns think that can be regarded late valve timing. Aka loosened lash setting(s).

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Update
usmcgrunt- thank You Sir...:thumbsup:Top rocker stud had loosened (Exhaust)...Now corrected. Exhaust pushrod is Steel, as link stated. Entry pushrod is aluminum... Valves are set to spec.. And also runs like new again, & obviously lot quieter as well..Didn"t think ns was missing any power (prior), but I to be wrong..And gas mileage has actually improved as well..
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True, but without the an useful Info around 1/4" previous TDC ~ above comp stroke, would have had actually me removed the valve cover an ext than the one time I had to.. & I"m certain scratching mine head would have been associated as well.. :thumbsup:Again Thanks, & additionally for the web links I saved !!!!
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