tl;dr: How can I a troubleshoot a disconnected Samsung TV BN44-00503A strength supply board the blows a replacement fuse as soon as power is applied?
I have actually a Samsung 55” TV (UN55ES6150) which make a popping noise and also shut down.
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I opened it, and also found that the 250V/5A ceramic fuse top top the power supply board (BN44-00503A) to be blown.
I replaced it, however the new fuse blew the moment the collection was plugged in, therefore the fuse blow was not a fluke.
So, I replaced it again, and also disconnected every cables indigenous the strength supply board prior to plugging the collection in, yet it still blew immediately.
I’d really prefer to fix this set, and also I’m handy sufficient with a soldering iron, multimeter and safety issues.
I realize I could go shopping for a new power supply board, and I’m not against that, yet I i will not ~ mind acquisition a shot at resolving this one.
Any proposal for troubleshooting this kind of power supply board?
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Trying come recollect if the fuse i would on the board has actually a T or S in it, (or even on the fuse finish caps). T means Timed, S for Slow. It counts on the manufacturer just how it is designated.
If it does then it is a slow-moving blow fuse and did you replace the fuse v a same kind of fuse i.e. A 250V/5A slow blow fuse?
A typical fuse will certainly most more than likely blow straight away as result of the current inrush when you first turn on the power, that is why a slow blow fuse is required (if that is the case), that will hold for long enough until the high transient present flow is over.
If the still blows with a slow blow fuse, then through the power completely disconnected, connect an Ohmmeter in between the calculation side of the fuse and the neutral foot of the strength input or chassis earth,(the input side of the fuse should affix to the active leg that the strength input) and make sure that there is no s/c analysis or even really low Ohms. If there is friend may have to start doing point to suggest testing v the Ohmmeter, tracing the monitor from the output of the fuse through the diode stack and so on to uncover out why over there is a short Ohms (or s/c) link from energetic to neutral.
It it s okay confusing together you go deeper right into the circuit as there room a many parallel paths which will mitigate the resistance measure up so friend may have to start disconnecting one leg of a component from the board, in the course that she tracing and test again.
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I did uncover a schematic because that a BN44-00501A which may be close sufficient to it is in of some help. Don’t take it together gospel though due to the fact that the circuit and also the component values may be entirely different etc, yet it might be helpful if the circuit on your board looks virtually the same.
Welcome come the civilization of fault finding in electronic circuits without the help of the exactly schematic diagram ;-)